You can certainly do this trip in October-the leaves are likely to have peaked by then, but they'll still be spectacular. Summers get hot, but stay close to the water and you'll find the heat and humidity eased by offshore breezes. June through September are when the weather's best, and when the flora are at their most enthusiastic. It's all a reflection of the quiet artistic spirit and fierce independence that define Mainers: tough but beautiful, like their coast. You'll find some of the most creative and delicious food in the country right now in Portland, and that restless urge for invention has begun working its way up the coast. These days, they go way beyond conventional Downeast charm. But the trio of cities here-Portland, Camden, and Bar Harbor-form what I think of as the heart of the state's allure, those top three tracks on the greatest hits compilation you can't stop humming. That juxtaposition of quaint and cozy against the ruggedly elemental has been the region's primary draw for nearly two centuries. Maine's coast hardly needs a sales pitch.
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